As I finally present a shoot whose reveal has been months in the making, I wanted to show you that although you may want to skip the full-body grunge look, a heroin chic eye is actually wearable AND easy to do! Black is classic no matter how you wear it, and combining that class with a little bit of rock ‘n’ roll is what makes this look fun!
Look at my shoot in our online magazine for some inspiration!
The trick is to do your eye makeup before you do anything else, including and especially foundation and concealer. Using so much of a dark color can create fallout, that pesky color that ends up on your cheeks after you apply eyeshadow, and erasing black from a perfectly makeup-ed complexion is nearly impossible. It’s much more practical to dust off any fallout BEFORE you apply your face makeup, and in this way, you will get the cleanest black eye ever!
When I’m applying my eye makeup before anything else, it helps me to start with my brows. This way, even if the rest of my face is bare, I have something to help me focus on my eyes instead of being distracted by my lack of foundation.
A well groomed brow, as well as flawless skin and lips, are essential to this look in particular, simply because a true heroin chic eye is messy. And in the law of balance, only one messy thing is allowed on your face. Ok, I made that up, but it really is vital to being able to rock this eye! For a how-to on brows, check out http://www.dollfacebyjules.com/blog/2012/11/5/all-about-brows-part-ii.html.
After your brows are groomed, you will begin to apply your eye makeup. The first step is applying a base (MAC Blacktrack). This is the perfect opportunity to use those spongy makeup brushes that come in an eyeshadow pack. Apply to your lashline first, then blend upward. Speed is essential, because you want to blend before the product sets, and this product sets FAST! (Remember, it doesn’t have to be too perfect! Some amount of smudge you can vouch for as intentional!) Your fingers are warm and readily available so they make the perfect blending tool.
(Make sure your hands are CLEAN!)
A great thing about this is that you can layer, so if you’re uncertain and apply too little, a second coat is all you need! Apply from lashline to crease and blend, and don’t forget to also draw the base on your bottom lashline too. This stuff is so important for the bottom of your eyes, because you don’t want to look in the mirror later on in the day to find your cheeks are black – this helps prevent that!
When you’ve got your base to the point you like it (and I promise it doesn’t have to be perfect for this to work!), apply a matte black eyeshadow (Tarina Tarantino Hypershadow in Butterfly Black). Use a shadow brush to press the powder into the base you’ve already applied. Don’t forget the corners and the bottom. I used the same brush for all areas to really embrace the messiness. You should begin to see a panda bear in the mirror! Remind yourself that it’s ok!
Now, here’s my trick to actually wear this look out into the world – take a very dark matte brown eyeshadow and press it into the edges of the black where it meets your skin. This diffuses the black just a little bit without taking away any of its intensity! Voila! The panda bear has become less goth and more relatable!
Your next step is to take a fluffy brush and blend all the edges out with that famous windshield wiper motion we are always talking about! The black will blend with the brown which will blend with your skin.
At this point, you probably have some pretty significant fallout on your face. It’s nothing that a cotton ball and Q-tip can’t solve. Dollface loves Embryollise moisturizer, and it doubles as a makeup remover. Apply a bit to your cotton tool of choice, and wipe away the excess makeup. Make sure that you also wipe away any excess moisturizer, because you don’t want it to accidentally dissolve the eye makeup you want to keep on.
Now, finally you can put on your face! Concealer, foundation, lipstick! My advice is to keep everything fairly neutral (a bright pink lip just isn’t quite right for this one), but concentrate on warming up your complexion. Because black is so intense, it can make your face look pale or tired, but it’s nothing a little bronzer can’t fix! Give yourself a faux sunkissed glow and loads of mascara, and party like the rockstar you are (or look like!)
For advice on achieving the perfect complexion, check out http://www.dollfacebyjules.com/airpod-foundation.