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Monday
Aug252014

Dramatic Lip How-To

One of the biggest trends right now is the ultra dark lip.  Although it may seem intimidating, you can actually personalize this color to suit your individual style.

What you’ll need:

OCC Lip Tar in Black Dahlia

MUFE Lip Line Perfector

Any deep burgundy lip liner.  (I actually like Wet N’ Wild in Brandywine because I can build the intensity of the color.)

Optional:  A matching lipstick or lipgloss.

The easiest way to wear this color is as a stain.  Think of your lips when you drink red wine or cherry Koolaid, but prettier.  Line your lips with the clear lipliner to keep the color from bleeding outside your lips, and color the dark lipliner from the center of your lips outward.  Apply the Lip Tar to the inside of your lips with a lip brush.  Then, use a Q-tip to blend the color out, keeping the intensity in the center and having it fade into a more natural color on the outside.

Since this look is fun but still semi-natural, your eye makeup can be at whatever intensity level you want.  A stain like this looks really beautiful with a smoky eye and a little black dress.

My favorite way to wear this color is with full intensity.  It isn’t difficult to do, but it does take a little extra time.  Line the outside of your lips with the clear lipliner first to keep the color from bleeding, then line the inside with the dark lip liner.  This helps me by creating a guide I can color inside.  Continue to “color” with the lip liner, fading it into your lips, creating a long lasting base for the Lip Tar.  Apply the Lip Tar with a lip brush, starting in the center of your lips and blending outward.  With this product, the teeniest bit on your brush will cover your lips, so practice restraint when applying.  At this point I usually move on to something else on my face such as my eyes, in order to give the color a chance to absorb into my lips.  After a few minutes, apply a second layer of Lip Tar and correct any mess ups with your dark liner.  Finish applying your makeup, and as a final optional step, apply either gloss or a matching lipstick for added intensity.  Use a straight flat brush to press a skin tone pressed powder into the outside line of your lips, perfecting your lip line and reinforcing the staying power of the color.

For day wear, this look is pretty dramatic, so to balance the intensity of the lips, keep your eye makeup fairly natural.  Add a flick of eyeliner for a subtle cat eye effect to take your makeup from day to night quickly.  Emerald is a big color this fall, and I love how it looks ultra-glam with this lip.

The best advice I can give when you’re trying something new is to practice the look on a day you aren’t going out.  Besides, there really is something extra special about cleaning the house in burgundy lipstick.

Until next time dolls,  XOXO,

Jessica

Monday
Aug182014

Bridal Hair Styles!

One of the most important, and sometimes the hardest, decisions brides have to make is how they want to style their hair for their wedding. There are so many different ways to get inspiration, from magazines to Pinterest; it can definitely be overwhelming! My suggestion of how to narrow down your options would be to choose from one of the three: all up, half up, or all down. This will help tremendously, and then you can see what details you desire later on.  

Photo by Kristian Bishop Photography

 

                                                Photo by Kristian Bishop Photography                                             

Having your hair styled all up is the most worry free option. Once it is all pinned and hair sprayed, and sprayed some more, you are good to go all night long! This is a really great style for outside weddings, especially in the warmer, more humid months of the year. Updo’s are very elegant in my opinion, and I love how intricate they can be.

 

 

Photos by Mike Briggs Photography

    Another way that is very common in bridal hair is a half up style. It lets the bride have the best of both worlds, and is a great choice for someone who is having a hard time deciding. You still have the comfort of letting some of your hair be down, but also feel confident that it will stay in place where it is pinned. I love to add braids and twists to my half up styles!

 

 Photos by Erin Rene Photography

Last but definitely not least is all down! Brides are starting to leave their hair down more and more and I love it! The trick with this style is to set the hair as early as you can. Once the hair has been set in the desired curl pattern all day, it will remain for twice as long than if you just curl it. Another must is awesome hair spray. I prefer clean hair for most styles, but specifically for hair that is going to be kept down. My belief is that I would rather dirty up the hair with products, rather then have it weighed down with natural oils.

Hopefully I have helped all of you brides out there with deciding your wedding hairstyle! Whichever you choose for your big day, it will be beautiful!

Happy Wedding Season!! 

<3 Mandy

 

Monday
Aug112014

Cleaning Your Makeup Brushes

So, let’s get right to it… When was the last time you cleaned your makeup brushes?

 Whenever I ask this question of a client in my chair, I am often met with a deer-in-the-headlights sort of expression that tells me all that I need to know.  We are all guilty of it; myself included - with my personal brushes, I mean.  So if your brushes are not feeling quite as soft as the day you first bought them, here are a few ways to bring their sexy back.

THE WHY’S

First and foremost, proper sanitation and hygiene practices help to keep you skin free from acne, and in some cases, diminishes the spread of viruses like conjunctivitis and skin rashes.  The tightly compacted bristles on your makeup brush can be a breeding ground for harmful bacteria as they pick up the dirt and oils found on your face.  Extra special attention should be paid to tools that make contact with the more moist parts of the face, such as around the eyes and lips.  Let’s be honest, pinkeye is not cute.

In addition to health reasons, dirty brushes will hold you back from getting a beautiful end result.  When dirty, the fluffy brushes used for your face and blush will cause your product to apply blotchy or streaky; dirty shadow brushes will cause your shadow pigment to look muddy.

THE HOW’S

Sanitize & Quick Clean – You want to disinfect your makeup brushes after every use.  An easy and affordable way to do that is by keeping Wet Ones on your vanity and gently wiping down your brushes after use.  Or you can invest in a daily brush cleaner spray like the one from Sephora.  These formulas are not only anti-bacterial, but also quick drying for transitioning between products and colors, or changing your makeup look from day to evening.

  • For larger, fluffy brushes, keep your Wet One wipe or paper towel moistened with brush cleaner flat and gently swirl remove products.
  • For smaller brushes, gently pinch the bristles between your thumb and forefinger using a wipe or paper towel moistened with brush cleaner and wiggle the brush back and forth until clean. 
  • MUA TIP: Do not soak the bristles and be sure to reshape the brush after cleaning to prevent fly-aways.

 

Deep Clean -- We suggest a weekly deep clean for brushes. Pick a day, example Sunday night, and try to develop a routine.  We recommend baby shampoo for real hair brushes and Dawn dishsoap for synthetic brushes.  Usually eye shadow and blush brushes are real hair, foundation and concealer brushes are synthetic.  Follow the directions below, just eliminate the baking soda. 

Super Deep Clean – Like you, your makeup brushes deserve a long, warm bubble bath from time to time. I like to give my brushes a really deep clean at least once a month.  My favorite cleaning combination is a 1tsp of baking soda and 1tbsp baby shampoo mixed with 1/4cup of warm water.  The key to this cleaning method is not to overdo it.  Makeup brushes are porous, so a bit of this formula on the tip of the bristles will be enough to clean the entire brush.

  • Sanitize brushes first to clean to break down excessive oil buildup and bacteria.
  • Dip the brush into the cleaning solution, then on a flat surface-like a plate- make small gentle circles.
  • Rinse brushes in warm water and squeeze excess water with a dry paper towel.
  • Reshape bristles and lay flat or hang dry.
  • MUA TIP: Avoid getting water in the ferrule of the brush (the metal piece that holds the bristles together and attaches bristles to the handle) to avoid rusting and to keep the glue from breaking down.  No one wants to end up with a bald brush!

Regardless of the size of your brush collection, you have made a financial investment into making it what it is.  That said, if you take good care of your brushes they will take good care of you, keep you acne free, and will be tools in your makeup arsenal for years to come.

Happy scrubbing!

Monday
Aug042014

Makeup Fix

It has happened to us all… in the midst of the morning rush while applying your makeup, one false move and you watch in slow motion as your compact hits the floor. SPLAT! You hold your breath as you rush to pick it up, nervously fidgeting to pry it open, you let out a frustrated breath as you realize the absolute worst has happened… not just cracked but shattered! I know in the moment you are tempted to trash it, but do NOT give in! This can be fixed pretty easily :) All you need is a little rubbing alcohol and some patience.

First add several drops of alcohol directly to your broken makeup in its compact. The product will begin to absorb the alcohol and the broken powder will become soft. Next you start smudging the softened powder around creating a paste like consistency. Then begin to reform it by smoothing it out into its original container with your finger, the back of a small spoon or any other tool of choice. Let it dry overnight (just being precautious), and wake up to your powder perfectly pressed in place like brand new!

The great thing about using alcohol to repair you makeup is that it not only works but you also don’t have to worry about it drying out your face or aggravating your skin. As the reformed powder dries out the alcohol you used completely evaporates from the product. How nifty is that?!?

You could even use this trick to create custom shadow colors or a transitional shade for going into fall with your left over summer and winter colors that would also work for spring. The options are endless!!! It’s a simple way to do more with less; which is core value for #teamdollface!

 I hope this helps the next time you’re in a pinch ;)… This is a nice glass of bubbly!

 

Cheers!

Emily  

Monday
Jul282014

Heroin Chic How To

As I finally present a shoot whose reveal has been months in the making, I wanted to show you that although you may want to skip the full-body grunge look, a heroin chic eye is actually wearable AND easy to do!  Black is classic no matter how you wear it, and combining that class with a little bit of rock ‘n’ roll is what makes this look fun!

Look at my shoot in our online magazine for some inspiration!

 

The trick is to do your eye makeup before you do anything else, including and especially foundation and concealer.  Using so much of a dark color can create fallout, that pesky color that ends up on your cheeks after you apply eyeshadow, and erasing black from a perfectly makeup-ed complexion is nearly impossible.  It’s much more practical to dust off any fallout BEFORE you apply your face makeup, and in this way, you will get the cleanest black eye ever!

When I’m applying my eye makeup before anything else, it helps me to start with my brows.  This way, even if the rest of my face is bare, I have something to help me focus on my eyes instead of being distracted by my lack of foundation.

A well groomed brow, as well as flawless skin and lips, are essential to this look in particular, simply because a true heroin chic eye is messy.  And in the law of balance, only one messy thing is allowed on your face.  Ok, I made that up, but it really is vital to being able to rock this eye!  For a how-to on brows, check out http://www.dollfacebyjules.com/blog/2012/11/5/all-about-brows-part-ii.html.

After your brows are groomed, you will begin to apply your eye makeup.  The first step is applying a base (MAC Blacktrack).  This is the perfect opportunity to use those spongy makeup brushes that come in an eyeshadow pack.  Apply to your lashline first, then blend upward.  Speed is essential, because you want to blend before the product sets, and this product sets FAST!  (Remember, it doesn’t have to be too perfect!  Some amount of smudge you can vouch for as intentional!)  Your fingers are warm and readily available so they make the perfect blending tool.

(Make sure your hands are CLEAN!)

A great thing about this is that you can layer, so if you’re uncertain and apply too little, a second coat is all you need!  Apply from lashline to crease and blend, and don’t forget to also draw the base on your bottom lashline too.  This stuff is so important for the bottom of your eyes, because you don’t want to look in the mirror later on in the day to find your cheeks are black – this helps prevent that!

When you’ve got your base to the point you like it (and I promise it doesn’t have to be perfect for this to work!), apply a matte black eyeshadow (Tarina Tarantino Hypershadow in Butterfly Black).  Use a shadow brush to press the powder into the base you’ve already applied.  Don’t forget the corners and the bottom.  I used the same brush for all areas to really embrace the messiness.  You should begin to see a panda bear in the mirror!  Remind yourself that it’s ok!

Now, here’s my trick to actually wear this look out into the world – take a very dark matte brown eyeshadow and press it into the edges of the black where it meets your skin.  This diffuses the black just a little bit without taking away any of its intensity!  Voila!  The panda bear has become less goth and more relatable!

Your next step is to take a fluffy brush and blend all the edges out with that famous windshield wiper motion we are always talking about!  The black will blend with the brown which will blend with your skin.

At this point, you probably have some pretty significant fallout on your face.  It’s nothing that a cotton ball and Q-tip can’t solve.  Dollface loves Embryollise moisturizer, and it doubles as a makeup remover.  Apply a bit to your cotton tool of choice, and wipe away the excess makeup.  Make sure that you also wipe away any excess moisturizer, because you don’t want it to accidentally dissolve the eye makeup you want to keep on.

Now, finally you can put on your face!  Concealer, foundation, lipstick!  My advice is to keep everything fairly neutral (a bright pink lip just isn’t quite right for this one), but concentrate on warming up your complexion.  Because black is so intense, it can make your face look pale or tired, but it’s nothing a little bronzer can’t fix!  Give yourself a faux sunkissed glow and loads of mascara, and party like the rockstar you are (or look like!)

For advice on achieving the perfect complexion, check out http://www.dollfacebyjules.com/airpod-foundation.

XOXO,

Jess